For All That Avocado Toast

For all that avocado toast has become an emblem of sophisticated cuisine elsewhere, it hasn’t crunched much in the East Village. But it’s the lead appetizer at the handsomely refurbished JRDN restaurant in the ocean-facing Tower 23 hotel.

Chef Dave Warner returned to Pacific Beach to take up his old toque and cast a Japanese enchantment on the new cuisine, which includes the offerings of a well-stocked sushi bar, a comprehensive build-your-own-poke-bowl menu, and that avocado toast, which piles grilled rustic bread with smashed avo, shiso, Parmesan and truffle.

It’s easy to eat this in view of rolling waves, as is the unusual surf-and-turf roll, filled with wagyu beef carpaccio, very spicy scallops and cucumber.

Things do get complicated with entrees like the one-half Maine lobster with New England-style fried rice (flavored with carrots, peas and vinegar) and tart, yuzu-spiked bearnaise sauce. Nice, but the cube of miso-glazed halibut with shrimp dumplings, candied leeks and brown butter dashi takes top honors.

JRDN at Tower23 Hotel
723 Felspar Street
Pacific Beach
San Diego, Ca 92109