Short Rib Bourguignon

If one bottle of cabernet sauvignon gets Chef Benjamin Navarro’s tasty take on boeuf borguignon off to a fine start, a second bottle intensifies the flavors of what is traditionally a potent dish with beaucoup personality.

The classic French recipe for this wine-dark stew is more a general guide than engraved in stone, and Benjamin, chef at restaurateur Garo Minassian’s well-established Parc Bistro-Brasserie in Bankers Hill, takes a route that leads to a sumptuous destination.

Using short ribs rather than the often characterless stewing beef found at many markets, results in better textures for both meat and sauce. And once the bourguignon is in the oven, the work is over.

Photography by Sarah Bolla

SHORT RIB BOURGUIGNON Serves 4 to 6

• 5 lbs. short ribs
• 2 carrots (large), peeled and diagonally cut into 1-inch lengths
• 2 onions (medium), peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 clove garlic (large), smashed with the side of a heavy knife and peeled
• 4 bay leaves (dried)
• 6 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 stalks celery, diced
• 2 bottles cabernet sauvignon, divided use
• kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
• 3 t. vegetable oil
• 1/4 lb. (4 oz.) applewood-smoked bacon, diced
• 1 t. tomato paste
• 4 c. beef stock (your own, or buy a good brand)

Bone the short ribs (or buy them boned), and cut into 2-inch cubes. Place in a large non-reactive bowl with carrots, onions, garlic, bay leaves, thyme and celery. Pour one bottle of wine over the contents, and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F when ready to cook. Remove meat cubes to a colander and drain, then dry meat with paper towels, place on a tray and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drain vegetables in a colander; no need to attempt drying them.

Heat vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet. Add bacon and stir over medium heat for 5 minutes. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and set on a plate.

Brown short rib cubes in single-layer batches over medium heat, about 5 minutes or until nicely colored on all sides. Place in a heavy casserole, preferably enameled cast iron. Add vegetables to fat remaining in the skillet. Stir about 10 minutes or until onions brown. Add tomato paste and stir about 4 minutes longer. Add to casserole along with the second bottle of wine and beef stock. Stir and place in the oven about 2 hours, or until meat tests fork-tender. May be cooked and stored in the refrigerator 2 days ahead. Reheat gently on the stove at service time.

Suggested wine pairing: The same cabernet sauvignon you choose for the recipe