Review: By Stephen Silverman Photography by Martin Mann
Lion’s Share: The neighborhood gets an update
THE LION’S SHARE has a low light and a moody look, almost as if it were a cellar speakeasy during Prohibition. Floors are concrete, walls are painted dark and artwork is aimed at the Comic-Con crowd. The speakeasy impression remains strong. The place is on the ground floor and is within shouting distance of Seaport Village.
What’s visible from the street through the large windows is the front room, a simple space of high-top tables. The back room has a big bar, lots of hanging-out space, and a few dining tables.
The Lion’s Share fits squarely among San Diego’s current batch of drinking-and-eating establishments where most people come to drink and perhaps nibble; fewer people come to eat a full meal. Still, the kitchen takes itself seriously and offers a hearty and challenging New American gastropub menu. Included are wild boar ribs, grilled whole branzino and pasta with buffalo Bolognese and bone marrow. Food is nicely prepared and, in this mostly residential part of the Marina District, Lion’s Share very much wants to be a neighborhood hangout where locals can go for a drink and decent food. That’s the mark it hits perfectly.
SERVICE: There’s a clear desire to please among staff, but also a lack of experience in waiting tables and catering to customers.
PATRONS: Most folks are from the neighborhood, and a few out-of-towners find their way here from nearby hotels. Patron demographics skew toward young professionals in their 20s and 30s, with a few seniors peppering the mix.
PARKING: It’s all street parking.
DETAILS: Open for dinner only. Starters and sides range from $5-$15 and entrées from $16-$28. Full bar.
629 Kettner Blvd., Marina District.