DISH: Mmm, Mmm, Italian

DISH: By David Nelson Photography by Brevin Blach

Mmm, Mmm, Italian

LIKE ROMANCE, A GOOD MENU needs a few new elements once in a while to keep it fresh. No problem for Fabrizio Cavallini, the Modena-born chef of Little Italy’s ever-bold Bencotto. No amount of work ever seems too much to Cavallini, who proudly hand-shapes pastas and recently introduced a list of specialties that includes olive all’Ascolana. The “mmm” inducing nuggets require pitting large olives (I could do that), spiral-cutting them (not so sure), packing in a filling of highly seasoned minced pork, recreating the original shape and frying the double-breaded olives to a delightfully crunchy finish.

Much travail creates explosions of flavor that perfectly introduce such other new offerings as butter-tender, beer-braised beef cheeks paired with pumpkin mashed potatoes; tart, balsamic vinegar-glazed skirt steak, and the remarkable guazzetto di calamari, which sets the tiniest, tender baby squid swimming in a spicy wine broth rich in bell peppers. To make it all work, small, lozenge-shaped garbanzo bean gnocchi moderate the heat and add another texture…

AS HAPPY AS A CLAM IN CHOWDER describes Brian Malarkey reacting to the reception given his new Gingham in La Mesa. Fierce spirits prowl the bar, which pours 12 specialties inspired by the Chinese Zodiac. What’s your sign? Fortunate Rabbits toss back a blend of Pimm’s Cup #1 and basil-flavored lemonade, garnished with a pickled globe carrot, while Rats sip gin muddled with plum wine, maraschino and Chinese “five spice” bitters…

DO-IT-YOURSELF DETAIL: The marshmallow that super-sweetens the “Campfire S’Mores” at Saltbox is made on-premises…

ALEX MINUTELLA, AN EARLY Gaslamp success with Osteria Panevino and major player with Ossetra and Greystone, has signed a bargain-basement lease on West Broadway premises that originally housed the never-successful Crescent Heights Kitchen (why name a San Diego eatery for an L.A. neighborhood?). The high-end Japanese-Italian fusion den hopes to knock guests out of their Gucci’s — and onto a futon…

VINCENZO LO VERSO, MINUTELLA’S part-ner in several establishments, also has struck out on his own, first with Hillcrest’s attractive Origano and now with the wickedly on-target Cremolose in the Gaslamp’s historic San Diego Hardware building. The Italian “autogrill” is named for a gelato variation that blooms in many fruity flavors. Tutti is made on-site, including sensational Sicilian pastries, a huge menu of hot and cold dishes, pizzas, deep-fried calzone and molto more…

AROUND THE CORNER at Fourth and F, low-key restaurateur Sean Shoja took the “third time’s the charm” option by book–ending his enduring Cafe Lulu with Mediterranean-themed BiteMe and the brand-new Red Light District, a swanky “Social House” at which gifted Jason Maitland cooks a posh, unapologetically self-indulgent menu…

DOWN THE STREET, the Cheese Shop surrendered its long-time digs and moved to much nicer surroundings in the Horton Grand Hotel. Problem is, regulars who lined up for breakfast at the old place don’t seem to have located the new one…

ANTONIO FRISCIA, known for efforts to make Stingaree a gourmet destination, is helping convert the old Cheese Shop into Gaijin Noodle + Sake House. Gaijin, Japanese for “foreigner” (why is this dis-comforting?), goes long with yakitori-style Guerrero Negro scallops, Duroc pork belly and Jidori chicken livers…

HUGELY SUCCESSFUL, Little Italy’s UnderBelly expands upstairs in the Q Building with a Japanese whiskey bar highlighted by, purrs a blithe press release, a “traditional Japanese ice program.” You tell me — please…

JULIA CHILD ONCE SUGGESTED eating spaghetti with chopsticks, causing an idolater to ruin a favorite necktie. Easier on apparel: Wagering who first will muscle up a dime with chopsticks at Wang’s North Park. Contestants playing during Wang’s Good Fortune Hour (4 to 7 p.m.) fuel the sport with $3.75 cocktails and reduced-price, cross-cultural snacks like edamame hummus and crab Rangoon.

Co-prop Joel Herzer confides plans to supplement the main floor’s 278 seats with another bar on the mezzanine, where private parties can be hosted, and additional party rooms in the basement. BIG place. Even so, Herzer says, “We’re not a tourist-oriented business — we’re not downtown.”

An admirable gluten-free menu pro-vides celiac sufferers a wide-ranging choice of Chinese classics and house creations, like the muy macho jalapeño calamari appetizer (not for chop suey fanciers), richly textured sautéed eggplant and convincing Hunan pork (see review, page 99).