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DIGITAL EDITION

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El Dorado Stone

Dish Sora

FASCINATING FUSION, it drives me insane, fascinating fusion can be so inane. The effort to re-work French cuisine with Tibetan culinary tricks (happening in Paris right now) can be utterly improvisational, a kind of “Sauce bearnaise made with salted yak butter might be extraordinaire!” adventure doomed to tumble over a very tall cliff. At times, though, the intent to juggle the ingredients and techniques of multiple cuisines is based on experience and good judgment and can produce rapturous results.

Culinary restlessness prowls San Diego kitchens as 2012 prepares to retire. In its final months, several new restaurants cranked up the creativity while remaining tethered to common sense. No trouble finding delicious novelties at new places like Sora, which occupies a daring downtown location. Presenting a “Milano-Tokyo influenced menu,” the place is co-owned by Alessandro Minutella, an early player in Gaslamp (Panevino, Ossetra) who calls it “my little masterpiece.”

With a name that translates as “sky,” Sora congregates considerable talent on the ground floor of a West Broadway office tower. Energetic managing partner Daniele Visco Gilardi is a Milan native, and executive chef/partner Noriyoshi Teruya opened San Diego’s link in the international Nobu chain. Some Teruya creations travel all over the map — beef carpaccio with truffle aioli, arugula and mizuna greens, Parmesan shavings, yuzu-kosho dressing and shaved black truffles jets among Italy, Japan and France — but you’ll gladly buy a companion ticket to enjoy these flavors. Pouring basil oil on raclette seems reckless, but steamed nikuman buns stuffed with braised pork belly hit a savory spot, and anyone who disagrees with a waiter’s claim that the suave caprese stars “the best tomatoes you’ll ever taste” doesn’t understand the unexpected delight of perfectly ripe cherry tomatoes soaked in Grand Marnier...

LEAVE IT TO CHAD WHITE to boldly fuse what no chef has fused before. At Counterpoint on 25th Street near Broadway, this fearless forager turns osso bucco Mexican by dressing braised pork shank with pozole, radishes and lime. His “sixty-
alpha sauce” glides equably over both classy steak-frites with herb-truffle butter and an all-American Angus cheeseburger. Rest assured that the clementine marmalade served with sublime buttermilk biscuits is homemade...

DAVID AND LESLEY COHN seem to effortlessly assemble teams that create largely perfect restaurants like Hillcrest’s new 100 Wines. Designed by Philippe Beltran (the Paris-born createur of Vagabond, Bleu Boheme, Bo-Beau and more), 100 Wines lights perhaps the city’s most magical courtyard as a stage for chef Katherine Humphus’ fertile forays into fusion, like a sensational appetizer of hummus, mixed olive tapenade and crisp, buttery pappadum crackers. Pile the first two on the latter and marvel at the unlikely harmony chorused by traditional Lebanese, Provençale and Indian foods. Garnishing phyllo-crusted sweetbreads (fabulously savory) with crisp pancetta AND roasted berry jam might seem to leap an uncrossable chasm, but there’s a soft landing on the other side...

WRAP YOUR ARMS AROUND THE THEORY that octopus is the new bacon. As a trendoid protein, it’s got eight times the allure of a strip of cured pork belly, which J-Six chef Christian Graves also tosses into the stew when he brews some “Octo,” an appealing preparation of tender octopus with cranberry beans and broccoli rabe heartily seasoned with garlic and chili flakes. Graves can cook: the chestnut-porcini sauce that underlies buttery seared scallops with deluxe mushrooms is musky and memorable. Oddly enough, he suggests accompanying entrées with cocktails like the Empire State, which soars as high as its namesake with vanilla-infused whiskey, sweet vermouth, cherry-vanilla bitters and a pickled cherry...

”MONKEY SLIDERS” sound like monkeyshines, but the plump little burgers draw barflies like honey to Monkey Paw Pub & Brewery, the hipster hangout on the Eastern edge of downtown...

THE HOTEL DEL IS NEARLY shooting off cannons to announce big gun chef Robert Hohmann, now nesting in the kitchen of way upscale 1500 Ocean. That he’s worked with Thomas Keller, Mario Batali and Jacques Pepin says it all.


DISH: By David Nelson • Photography by Martin Mann

June 23, 2014

Storybook English Cottage

in Home Features
Storybook English Cottage A Coronado home blends multiple “personalities” Along our shores, the word “cottage” most often combines with beach and conjures up something small and cozy. On the other hand, cottage style sometimes describes something as grand as architect Julia Morgan’s fairy tale Wyntoon for William Randolph Hearst or a Vanderbilt summer Newport mansion. There’s something of both in a new…
May 21, 2014

Soaring Beauty

by sdhg editors
Mar 03, 2014

Changing Spaces

by sdhg editors
Mar 03, 2014

Everything But The…

by sdhg editors
May 21, 2014

Focus on Color

in GARDEN FEATURES
Focus on Color An Encinitas property awash in a rainbow of flowers is picture-perfect Six million blossoms — that’s Ralph Peters’ approximation for the number of flowers that carpet his Encinitas garden every spring. It’s not merely a guess. The retired nuclear engineer devised a formula to make his calculation. But no one at the annual garden party he hosts with his wife, Donna, would doubt the size of…
Mar 03, 2014

Tomato Troubleshooting

by sdhg editors
Feb 21, 2014

Garden Ease

by sdhg editors
Jan 29, 2014

February in the Garden

by sdhg editors
June 27, 2014

Mindful Art

in Lifestyle
A Fine Line by Janice Kleinschmidt Mindful Art Memories in the Making uses painting as a way to help those with Alzheimer’s disease A member of the golf club, tennis club, athletic council and National Honor Society, Elinor Murphy also served as class secretary and president. These days, she resides at an assisted-living facility in Carmel Valley, where she painted Spring, one of 18 paintings paired with works by…
May 22, 2014

Depth Perception

Mar 03, 2014

Eat, Stay, Love

June 26, 2014

Rouge, Blanc & Bleu

in RECIPES
Rouge, Blanc & Bleu With Independence Day and Bastille Day celebrations on the calendar this month, bring the best of American and French cuisines to the table. Here are three chefs’ tasty twists on classic fare that are worthy of fireworks.
May 21, 2014

All Juiced Up With…

Feb 14, 2014

Heavenly Dining

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EDITOR'S CORNER

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DisneyDwarfs

Perhaps it’s because the “cottage” with the wavy, cedar-thatched roof on the cover of our July issue looks like it could be the home of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs that I was immediately intrigued by a press release I received this week.

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