Rouge, Blanc & Bleu
With Independence Day and Bastille Day celebrations on the calendar this month, bring the best of American and French cuisines to the table. Here are three chefs’ tasty twists on classic fare that are worthy of fireworks.
SUGAR & SCRIBE BAKERY
Memories of her Irish grandmother’s roasted Brussels sprouts inspired chef-owner Maeve Rochford of Sugar & Scribe Bakery in Pacific Beach to create this savory vegetarian pie. Always on the menu, it has proved popular with men who don’t equate its nutty goodness with “eating their vegetables,” she says.
Brussels Sprouts and Pecan Pie
For the pastry
1/4 c. butter, ice cold
1/4 c. margarine, ice cold
1 t. sugar
Pinch of salt
5 c. all-purpose flour
1/2 c. ice water
For the filling
3 c. whole Brussels sprouts
1 T. olive oil
1/8 c. onion, chopped
1/8 c. celery, chopped
1 T. capers
Zest of one lemon
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. white pepper
1/4 t. black pepper
2 T. brown sugar
1/3 c. pecan pieces, broken
1 T. salted butter, room temperature
1/4 c. raw Yukon gold potato, finely chopped
For the egg wash
1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 t. of water
Chop butter into small pieces. Place it in a bowl with the margarine, sugar, salt and flour. Using your fingers, feather the butter and margarine into the dry ingredients until the mixture looks like loose breadcrumbs.
Mix in the ice water until just combined. Form the dough into a ball and chill for 2 hours.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll Brussels sprouts in olive oil and place in a castiron or other ovenproof pan. Roast for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. (Can be made in advance and refrigerated.)
Sauté onion and celery until tender.
Put the cooled Brussels sprouts in a large bowl. Gently fold in remaining filling ingredients, taking care not to mash the vegetables.
Butter a 10-inch pie pan. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and divide into two portions: 11.5 oz. and 3 oz. (Extra pastry can
be frozen for another use.) Roll the large portion into a 13-inch-diameter circle. Place in pie pan with dough overlapping the edges.
Place filling in dough and roll out remaining dough for a top crust. Place over filling and crimp edges. Using a knife, cut 4 or 5 vents in the top crust. Brush the crust with egg wash.
Bake 25 minutes at 350 degrees, until crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven, cut into slices and serve.
Suggested beverage: Guinness or dark chocolate stout
Poseidon Executive Chef Mourad Jamal lightens this brightly flavored seafood dish for summer by substituting gnocchi for garlic mashed potatoes.
Alaskan Halibut Tapenade with Spinach, Gnocchi and Roasted Red Pepper Coulis
1/2 c. kalamata olives, chopped
1/2 c. green olives, chopped
3 T. diced fire-roasted bell peppers
(available at grocery stores), seeds removed
2-3 T. extra virgin olive oil
2-3 T. balsamic vinegar
4 fire-roasted red bell peppers, seeds
2 T. olive oil
1 T. minced garlic
1 T. minced shallot
1 bay leaf
4 T. rice wine
1 12 oz. Alaskan halibut fillet, cut in half
Salt and pepper to taste
7 oz. potato gnocchi
2 T. heavy cream
Salt and white pepper
1 T. olive oil
8 oz. fresh spinach
1 T. minced garlic
Mix tapenade ingredients in a small bowl
and set aside.
Purée coulis peppers in a blender. In a medium saucepan over medium-high
heat, add oil, garlic, shallot and bay leaf and cook 2-3 minutes. Add rice wine and peppers and cook an additional 15-20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and purée.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season the halibut with salt and pepper. Place on a greased cookie sheet and bake 8-12 minutes to desired doneness.
Meanwhile, prepare the gnocchi according to package instructions. Drain and place in a pan along with the cream. Cook briefly, stirring to coat the gnocchi. Season to taste. Keep warm while preparing the spinach.
Heat oil in a skillet. Add spinach and garlic and cook until spinach is wilted. Keep warm.
Place the spinach and gnocchi next to each other on warm plates and top with halibut. Sauce the plate with the red pepper coulis and place 2 T. of tapenade on top of the fish.
Suggested beverage pairing: An Italian white or light-bodied red wine
“Who doesn’t love bacon and eggs?” asks Executive Chef Matt Gordon rhetorically. At his new Sea & Smoke brasserie in Del Mar, he gives spinach a sweet and savory twist. “Plus,” he says, “you meet your salad quota while eating it.” Enjoy this with a warm baguette for an elegant lunch.
Warm Spinach Salad
For the vinaigrette:
1/2 c. natural bacon, chopped
2 shallots, roughly chopped
1/4 c. Dijon mustard
1/2 c. red wine vinegar
1/4 c. honey
1/4 t. ground black pepper
1 1/2 c. grapeseed or other light oil
For the salad:
1/2 c. chopped bacon, cooked
3-4 c. organic baby spinach (Bloomsdale
Savoy, if possible)
1/2 c. dried figs, quartered
1/4 c. shaved Parmesan
1 warm poached egg
Toss the bacon and shallots in a touch of oil and sauté until soft and hot. Add mustard, vinegar, honey and pepper and stir to combine. Let cool. Place cooled mixture in a blender. With the blender on high, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. The vinaigrette can be made in advance and stored up to five days in the refrigerator.
To make the salad, place 2 to 3 oz. of the vinaigrette and the bacon in a wok. Place on the stove over medium heat to warm. Add spinach and figs and toss for about 15 seconds until the spinach is wilting a bit. Transfer salad to a bowl, top with the shaved cheese and poached egg and serve immediately.
Suggested pairing: Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve Champagne or other sparkling wine
CARLSBAD BEACH BISTRO
Throughout the summer, Executive Chef Aaron Arko showcases cheesy ravioli burst-ing with crab on Friday pasta nights at the Hilton Garden Inn Carlsbad Beach Bistro.
Three-Cheese Crab Ravioli
For crab stuffing:
1 16 oz. can pasteurized jumbo lump crab meat
1 5.2 oz. package of Boursin with garlic and herbs
1/4 c. ricotta
1/4 c. freshly grated Parmesan
1 T. fresh lemon juice
Lemon zest from 1 lemon
Pinch kosher salt and ground pepper
2 c. fresh basil leaves
1 c. fresh Italian parsley
4 garlic cloves
1/2 c. grated Parmesan
Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 c. extra virgin olive oil, divided use
8 fresh pasta sheets, 9 in. by 11 in. (available at Italian specialty stores)
2 eggs, lightly beaten with 1 t. water
Freshly grated Parmesan
Combine all stuffing ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
Put the first five pesto ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Add half the oil and purée. With the motor running, drizzle in the remaining oil.
Lay four of the pasta sheets on a lightly floured work surface. Spoon 1 oz. of crab filling about 3 inches apart on the sheets. There should be six mounds of filling per sheet.
Brush the egg wash between the filling mounds. Place the remaining pasta sheets on top and gently press down around the filling.
Cut out the individual ravioli and firmly crimp the edges together with your fingers. Place on a floured pan and freeze for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water with a dash of olive oil to a gentle boil. Drop in the ravioli and cook 3-4 minutes or until they float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon.
To serve, place four ravioli in a warmed pasta bowl. Top with pesto and Parmesan.
Suggested beverage pairing: Pinot Grigio